WANT a Beirut investment tip? Concrete. Thanks to a
couple of years of political calm, the palm-fringed
Middle Eastern city is bingeing on new buildings and
cultural projects. A fast-expanding night-life strip, an
upstart design district, new hotels and the country’s
first contemporary art museum have all sprouted in the
last few years. And they’re certainly not going
unnoticed. A record number of travelers showed up to
discover Lebanon and its capital in 2009. If the peace
holds, look for an even bigger swell this year.
Friday
5
p.m.
1) SMOKE ON THE WATER
Muslim women in headscarves, scruffy locals in rock
T-shirts, Filipina baby sitters: come dusk, Beirut’s
seaside walkway known as the Corniche becomes host to a
city on parade. To watch it and enjoy views of the
glittering Mediterranean while you’re at it, start
across from the Hard Rock Cafe (where an outdoor banner
reads, “The time will come when you see we are all
one...”) and stroll west past the fast-rising hotels,
luxury apartment buildings and the leafy campus of the
American University of Beirut. The Manara Palace Cafe
(961-1-364-949), next to the lighthouse on the water, is
a perfect place to absorb the salt air, wash of waves,
cry of seagulls and fiery sunset while drinking fresh
mango juice (7,500 pounds, or $5 at 1,492 Lebanese
pounds to the dollar) and smoking sweet fruit tobacco
from a narghile pipe (12,000 pounds).
8
p.m.
2) DUELING FLAVORS
The city’s top two regional cuisines, Lebanese and
Armenian, are served up masterfully at Al Mayass (Wadih
Naim Street, Ashrafieh; 961-1-215-046), an Old
World-style restaurant where a lively soundtrack is
provided by roaming musicians. Itch, a zesty cold salad
of bulgur, finely chopped parsley, diced tomato, lemon
and spices, cuts the Middle East heat. But the marquee
attraction is the grilled kebab in syrupy cherry sauce.
Dinner for two with arak, the local aniseed liquor, runs
about 140,000 pounds.
11 p.m.
3) MIDEAST GROOVES
Late night unleashes a sea of C’s — Champagne, Chivas
Regal, Cohibas, Cartier, cleavage — at Music Hall (Starco
Center, Minet El Hosn; 961-3-807-555; elefteriades.com),
where dolled-up young professionals, cigar-smoking
captains of industry and local celebrities fill the
plush red booths and chairs to watch more than a dozen
musical acts belt out a globetrotting playlist. Backed
by an orchestra in red robes, the talents range from
leopard-print divas doing Beyoncé covers to the Chehade
Brothers, a Palestinian pair who kick out rollicking
Arabian jams in exotic scales. Book in advance. The $55
cover charge is applied toward drinks. (Note that prices
are often quoted in American currency, and dollars are
widely accepted.)
Saturday
11 a.m.
4) FARM FRESH
Find an empty suitcase and wheel it down to Souk El
Tayeb (Saifi Village parking lot; 961-1-442-664;
soukeltayeb.com), Beirut’s first farmers’ market, which
started in 2004. Drawn from a broad spectrum of
Lebanon’s diverse faiths and rural regions, the dozens
of growers, producers and artisans who gather every
Saturday (9 a.m. to 2 p.m.) represent both a subtle
social experiment in national reconciliation and an
excellent market for snapping up local olive oil,
tomatoes, cheeses, jams, breads, soaps, baskets, flowers
and nearly everything else from Lebanon’s horn of
plenty. It’s a prime spot to assemble a farm-fresh
brunch. The Earth & Co. stand serves hot manouche (5,000
pounds), warm thin sourdough bread wrapped around thyme,
labneh cheese and sliced tomato.
1
p.m.
5) THE LEBANESE AESTHETIC
Whether you’re furnishing a sultan’s palace or a mere
studio, the Ottoman-style town houses in Saifi Village
are quickly filling with boutiques from top Lebanese
design talents. Nada Debs (Moukhalsieh Street;
961-1-999-002; nadadebs.com) mixes Far East and Middle
East styles, like a cube-shaped oak candleholder inlaid
with geometric mother-of-pearl patterns ($100). And
Bokja (just off Moukhalsieh Street; 961-1-975-576;
bokjadesign.com), run by the design duo Maria Hibri and
Hoda Baroudi, takes iconic chairs and sofas by Western
designers, like the classic Eames lounger, and
reupholsters them with kaleidoscopic collages of fabrics
from the Middle East, Central Asia and beyond.
4
p.m.
6) AVANT-GARDE AFTERNOON
With the new Beirut Art Center (Jisr El Wati, Street 97,
Building 13; 961-1-397-018; beirutartcenter.org), the
Lebanese capital is emerging as a strong contender for
the art capital of the Middle East. Opened last year,
the nation’s first contemporary art museum is an airy
white two-level space that holds rotating exhibitions —
often two at a time — all year long. From the
experimental films of the Lebanese architect Bernard
Khoury to the photographs of Emily Jacir, a Palestinian
conceptual artist, the museum’s rotating exhibitions are
the most unusual, adventurous, intellectually
challenging and envelope-pushing that you’ll find in
Beirut.
8
p.m.
7) A RETURN TO PARIS
A
clutch of new French restaurants seem bent on
recapturing Beirut’s long-ago nickname as Paris of the
Middle East. Opened in November, the neo-bistro Couqley
(The Alleyway, Gouraud Street, Gemmayzeh; 961-1-442-678;
couqley.com) is run by the French-American-Belgian chef
Alexis Couquelet, who is a veteran of top Gallic
kitchens including Paris’s Market and La Bastide de
St.-Tropez. Twice a week, he receives shipments of beef
and duck flown in from France, resulting in a thick
filet de boeuf with a Bordelaise sauce, and a confit de
canard jazzed up with fresh raspberries that cut the
fatty duck with fruity acidic zing. Book in advance.
Dinner for two, without wine, about 120,000 pounds.
11 p.m.
8) THE COCKTAIL DISTRICT
Mashroob is the word for a drink in Arabic, and you’ll
find a whirlwind of them in the red-hot Gemmayzeh
district. There’s a bar for every clique and mood.
Bourgeois singles and 40-something divorcées sip Chateau
Ksara wine and crowd the long bar at Kayan (Liban
Street, Gemmayzeh; 961-1-563-611), an airy and vaguely
British colonial-style bar. For live Arabian music,
backgammon and water pipes, try Gemmayzeh Café (Gouraud
Street, Gemmayzeh; 961-1-580-817). And when it’s time to
dance to D.J.-spun electro, house and indie rock, the
self-styled cool kids and creative set swill Almaza beer
in the velvety confines of Behind the Green Door (across
from Electricité du Liban, Gouraud Street, Mar Mikhael;
961-70-856-866).
Sunday
Noon
9) A BEIRUT BRUNCH
If you’re still feeling the excess of your Arabian
night, mimosas and Bloody Marys await at Casablanca (Dar
El Mreisseh Street, Ein El Mreisseh; 961-1-369-334), an
Ottoman-era mansion restored with funky colors and
contemporary art. Menu items like French toast, eggs
Benedict and bagels with smoked salmon suggest a New
York City diner. But the chatter of Arabic, French and
English from Lebanese brunchers brings you back to
cosmopolitan Beirut. Brunch for two, about 60,000
pounds.
2
p.m.
10) LEVANTINE SHORES
In a city of many faiths — Christian, Sunni, Shiite,
Druze — at least one religion is universally practiced:
sun worship. One of the most pleasant temples is Lazy B
(off the airport highway, Jiyeh; 961-70-95-00-10;
lazyb.me), about 20 miles south
of Beirut. From May to October, the tranquil beach club
features a smorgasbord of sandy coast, rocky coves,
grassy expanses, scenic outdoor terraces, swimming pools
and other spots where hordes of heliophiles absorb
ultraviolet rays and cultivate their bronzed exteriors.
So here’s a final Beirut investment tip: suntan oil.
IF YOU GO
Many airlines including Air France, Lufthansa and Egypt
Air offer flights to Beirut from New York City with a
layover. A recent search found a Lufthansa flight in May
from Kennedy Airport, with a change in Frankfurt, for
about $1,200.
The newest luxury hotel is the Four Seasons Hotel Beirut
(1418 Avenue Professor Wafic Sinno, Minet El Hosn;
961-1-761-000; fourseasons.com/beirut). Opened this
year, the 230-room hotel has a sleek Mediterranean
restaurant and a plush colonial-style bar, with doubles
from $250.
Orient Queen Homes (John Kennedy Street, Ras Beirut;
961-1-361-140;orientqueenhomes.com), near the American
University of Beirut, opened last year and has 71
apartments and suites done in angular Ikea-esque style.
Studios start at $150.
A
good budget bet is the Mayflower Hotel (Yafet Street,
Hamra, 961-1-340-680; mayflowerbeirut.com), a British
colonial-style hotel that was spruced up in 2007 and
offers Mediterranean vistas and a rooftop pool, with 85
rooms from $130.